Posts Tagged ‘knitting’

Now that it has been gifted you get pictures.
This is a worsted version of the Irish Hiking Hat pattern. It used about 2/3 of a skein of Wool-Ease. I only used one set of decreases instead of adding a second set like I did on the bulky version. It makes the top point but it flattens out just fine when you have it on.
I also doubled the cabled band for extra ear warmth. That’s an extra layer of reverse stockinette all around the inside of the hat.


Download the Pattern in pdf format
Updated 11/30


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Irish Hiking Hat

12/13/07 NOTE: Added a bit about increasing the crown height.  Will add it to the pdf tonight.

11/21/07 NOTE: This post is about the bulky weight hat. There is also a worsted weight version with an ear warmer band.

This all started because I wanted a hat. Someone else had already made a hat called the Irish Walking Hat that looks very different but also goes with the scarf but I just don’t like that style. I need something with a little more shape built into it. Here is the finished product.

Irish Hiking Hat 2
Irish Hiking Hat 1

Sorry the pictures are rather craptastic but you get the idea. There is a picture of another, unlined one *here*

This is what I did based on the yarn I was using for the scarf and the size of my head*


Irish Hiking Hat – Bulky Version with Optional Fleece Lining


  • Around 100 yards of bulky yarn. The one picture here is in Wool-Ease Chunky in Willow. The unlined one is also in Wool-Ease Chunky in Gray.
  • Sz 8 or 9 needles (swatch and see what you like best given your yarn. I was getting 3 stitches per inch), including either circulars or dpns for the crown. I knit the band going back and forth on circs or you could use straights.

Directions: Cast on 16 stitches

  1. p3, k2, p6, k2, p3, turn
  2. k3, p2, k6, p2, k3, turn
  3. rep row 1
  4. rep row 2
  5. rep row 1
  6. rep row 2
  7. rep row 1
  8. k3, p2, work front cable, p2, k3
  9. Repeat above until it goes around your head (this is the same cable pattern from the scarf – just one cable wide instead of 3)

Cast off and seam the two ends together.

Pick up one stitch per row of knitting all around one side of the band with your circular needle. Count the number of stitches and divide by 4.

At this point you may want to do some math.  Some of the lovely people who have knit this report that it may be a bit shallow.  To determine whether or not you want to do some rounds of plain stockinette or work one decrease round/one plain round until you start the second set of decreases do the following:

  • Put the band around your head where you want it and measure your head from the top of the band to where you want the hat to flatten out.
  • Check your rows/inch (or rows/cm) gauge.
  • Calculate how many rows it will take you to get to that point.
  • If if is MORE than 2/3 of the number of stitches between your markers then you may want to think about adding some height to the hat.
  • (Example: I have 25 stitches between markers. The distance from the top of the band to where I want the top of the hat is 3.5 inches.  I have a gauge of 5 rows per inch that means it will take around 18 rows to get to where I want to start the second set of decreases.  15 is really close to 2/3 (60% to be precise).  If I want to leave some room for hair or just like a slightly taller hat I’ll do 2-3 of rounds of stockinette before starting the decreases.)

Now that you have either done the math or just decided to wing in and either do a couple rounds of stockinette or not, K2tog, *k 1/4 of your stitches, k2tog* until you are back where you began. Continue to knit around the circle decreasing evenly at the four points. Make sure when you k2tog that the second stitch of the k2tog is the decrease from the row before. You will see the decreases start to form a spiral pattern. Continue until the hat is as tall as you would like it to be plus a round or two if you are going to line it (I did about 12 rounds – should have done 14).

To close the top flatly, I added another decrease halfway between each of the existing ones and kept going round until there were only 4 stitches left. I switched over to the dpns when I added the second set of decreases because the circular was getting awkward. Cut yarn and sew the last 4 stitches together and pull through to the wrong side.

Lining: (NOTE: if you don’t want to line it, instead of doing stockinette on both sides of the cable band, do one side k3 and one side in moss stitch like the edges of the scarf. You can see that on the unlined one) Measure the circumference and height of your hat. Cut a piece of fleece or other warm, soft fabric to the width +1″ and the height +3″. Sew it into a tube with a 1/2 seam. Pin one edge of the tube to the right side of the brim of the hat – preferably one row in. The goal is to sew it between the first and second stitch of the knitting. Sew together. (Note to self: Make sure all the pins are out before trying it on again.) The fleece will show at this point. If you like that look, move on to the top. If not, you can either machine stitch the fleece to the knitting (aim for the purl bit just below the cable) or blind stitch it by hand. If you machine stitch make sure your thread matches well or it will show.

How you do the top depends on your level of sewing talent, level of patience, and space in the top of your hat. I didn’t leave much room so I needed as little bulk as possible. I took a largish needle and some embroidery floss and hand sewed a running seam around the loose end of the fleece. Then I just gathered it up and tied it off and tacked it to the top of the hat. If you really wanted to make the inside pretty too you could fold it in little triangles and stitch it to make a similar spiral-y pattern on the inside. If you sew – particularly quilt – you know what I mean. If you don’t, probably best not to try. You’ll curse a lot.

*Your mileage may vary.

Questions? Comments? Please leave a comment! 🙂

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